Greensted-juxta-Ongar
is a hamlet 23 miles from central London and deep in the Essex countryside. Until
it closed in 1994, it was just a 20-minute walk from what was then the last
stop on the eastern section of the Central Line at Ongar. It is a bit more
difficult to get to these days; it is a 6-mile trek on foot from Epping station
or 9 miles from Brentwood. It is famous for having the world’s oldest wooden
church and for being one of the overnight resting places of the miracle working
remains of St Edmund the Martyr as they were taken from London to Bury-St-Edmund’s.
“The church is famous all over England as the only survivor – and what an
unlikely survival – of a log- church. Moreover, it can with some probability be
dated c. 1013, the year of the passing through of St Edmund’s body,” says the
great authority on English architecture, Nikolaus Pevsner in the Essex volume
of ‘The Buildings of England.’ Since 1954 when Pevsner wrote the date of the
wooden nave has been pushed forward by half a century to the early 1060’s but
there is no disputing that the existing building predates the Norman conquest
and is the only surviving log built Saxon Church in England and that it is the
oldest wooden church in Europe.
A
wooden church has been on this site since the late 7th century shortly after St
Cedd, a Saxon trained in the monastery at Lindisfarne, was sent south to
convert his pagan brethren in the land of the East Saxons, Essex. Earlier
wooden buildings have been uncovered beneath the chancel of St Andrews and are
probably the remains of these earlier churches.
The nave walls, as can be seen in the photo, were built from vertically
split oak logs and held in place by an oak sill. The sill was replaced in a
major restoration in 1848 and a brick plinth was added to strengthen the walls.
The dormer windows are Tudor, the brick chancel dates from the early 16th
century and no one is sure when the Tower was built but like many church towers
in Essex it is a timber construction with clap board laid over an oak frame. Although
dedicated to St Andrew the church has strong links with St Edmund, and a
carving on one of the roof beams at Greensted shows a wolf guarding his severed
head.
According
to Edmund’s earliest biographer, Abbo of Fluery who wrote his Passio Santi
Eadmund over a hundred years after the King had supposedly been martyred,
he was crowned King of East Anglia at the age of 15. In 869 Edmund was captured by the marauding
Danish army of Ubbe Ragnarsson and Ivar the Boneless. Abbo relates how Edmund refused to fight
Ivar, and was beaten senseless with cudgels in the hall of the Dane. When
Edmund called on Christ for help, he was taken outside and lashed to a tree.
The Danes were curious to see if his God would save him. They then shot him
full of arrows “as with bristles of a hedgehog,” as Abbo put it. His corpse was
then decapitated and the head flung deep into the woods. When his subjects
recovered the corpse, they struggled to find the missing head. The men looking
for the head became separated and began to call ‘Where are you?’ to their
companions. ‘Hic! Hic! Hic!’ a voice replied, ‘Here! Here! Here!’. Following
the voice, they discovered the severed head of the king lying between the fore
paws of a wolf. The ferocious animal appeared to have been guarding the holy
man’s head as it relinquished the relic without so much as a growl and walked
off into the forest. St Edmund was buried at the Benedictine Abbey at Bury St
Edmunds but his body was later exhumed and removed to London for safekeeping.
Legend has it that all traces of the arrow wounds had disappeared from the
corpse and that the head has miraculously re-joined to the body with only a
thin red line to show that they had ever been severed. The body was returned to Bury St Edmunds in
1013 and it was during this second journey that the remains of the martyr
rested at Greensted.
I have heard of that church and wondered where it was, it a church I would like to visit sometime
ReplyDeleteInternally it isn't the most interesting of churches Bill but it is in a nice setting and it is architecturally unique.
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