“Quite suddenly
and simply by chance, I once met a bizarre lady while taking tea with some
friends in London. She arrived wearing black velvet from head to foot, her
mouth painted blood red, and carrying a very tall umbrella with a decorated
handle. And, you must understand, this ensemble was being worn in the middle of
the day. This picturesque ruin of a woman was very tall and thin, and gave the
impression of formidable strength. It was then I was introduced to the Marchesa
Luisa Casati for the first and last time. She had made her entrance into that
room looking wonderful and saying very little. She wasn’t beautiful—she was
spectacular. Here was a woman possessing a presence one would never forget.”
Quentin Crisp
Luisa Casati in Paris, photographed by Man Ray |
Once
fabulously wealthy and a member of all the most elite European social
and artistic circles, the Marchesa Luisa
Casati lived in London after the war in relative poverty, moving from one rented
flat to another and only just keeping one step ahead of her creditors. Her
belongings once filled mansions and townhouses across the continent but were
now reduced to a tattered collection of frocks and fripperies; a stuffed lions
head, a broken cuckoo clock, a fragment of finger, supposedly a relic of St
Peter, amongst other worthless junk. She dressed only in black, someone once described
her late London outfits as resembling 'the plumage of a shabby raven'. She
rummaged in the bins outside the Chelsea Palace Music hall and came away with
scraps of monkey fur, fabric and feathers
to tart up her outré costumes. Because she could no longer afford kohl she
ringed her eyes with boot polish. Towards the end of her life all her old
friends were dead but she stayed in touch with them through séances conducted
in her flat. In time she came to believe she had powers of telepathy and
stopped contacting even her living friends, preferring to rely on thought transference
to communicate.
Another Man Ray portrait of the Marchesa |
When
she died of a stroke in 1957 Harrods handled the funeral arrangements, laying her out in
their chapel before the interment at Brompton Cemetery. Her funeral finery consisted
of her best black dress, a leopard skin coat that had seen better days and a
new pair of false eye lashes. An old friend for former days, a stuffed pet Pekingese,
joined her in the coffin. The day of the funeral was unseasonably cold and
there were few mourners Her memorial is modest for a woman who once amassed
debts amounting to millions of dollars
and her name is misspelled Louisa as though she were English.
Luisa by Augustus John |
Luisa
Amman was born in January 1881 in Milan, the youngest daughter of a father who,
when he died in 1896, reputedly left the 15 year old Luisa and her older sister
the richest women in Italy. She married Camillo, Marchese Casati Stampa di
Soncino in 1900 and became the Marchesa Luisa
Casati. The couple had one child and then lived apart until the
Marchese died in 1946. Luisa became a celebrated society hostess, muse and
patron to innumerable artists, the lover of Gabriele d'Annunzio, an eccentric and
femme fatale. She commissioned portraits or sculptures of herself by Giovanni
Boldini, Paolo Troubetzkoy, Romaine Brooks, Augustus John (whose judgement on his patron was “Luisa
Casati should be shot, stuffed and displayed in a glass case”), Kees van Dongen,
and Man Ray. Before the First World War she took up residence in at the Palazzo
Venier dei Leoni, on the Grand Canal in Venice where she held fabulous parties
with gold painted servants, mechanical birds in gilded cages, a pride of white
peacocks and a pair of cheetahs with jewelled collars that she took for walks
along the canal side. According to one of her biographers “for a summer of drug abuse on the island of
Capri, she packed a wardrobe of black Morticia gowns, dyed her hair green, and
paraded through the village streets with a crystal ball, followed by a retainer
in gold body paint.”
Her
clothes were as eccentric as their owner and she has become something of a fashion
icon, influencing designers such as John Galliano and Alexander McQueen and even
has a fashion house, Georgina Chapman and Keren Craigs ‘Marchesa’, named after
her. High living destroyed Luisa’s fortune and by the 1930’s she had debts
amounting to $25 million dollars. She was forced into bankruptcy and the
houses, villas, paintings, jewels, exotic animals, and haute couture were all
sold off to pay her debts. Her only daughter had married into the British aristocracy
and a penniless Luisa had to live in
London as the only alternative to starving in Paris, Rome or Milan.
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