Anyone
alive and watching TV in the early 1970’s witnessed Lavender Hill Cemetery’s brief
moment in the national spotlight when it featured in all but one of the 74
episodes of the ITV comedy ‘On the Buses’, as the Cemetery Gates that were the terminus
of Stan and Jack’s number 11 bus route. DiamondGeezer, though clearly not a fan of the comedy classic, paid a visit just to
see the gates in 2021. His account is worth a read. Members of the ‘On the
Buses’ fan club also make pilgrimages to the location. I literally haven’t seen
the programme since it came off air 50 years ago in 1973; as a prepubescent I loved
it but I strongly suspect that now, even through the soft focus of nostalgia, I
would find it unwatchable.
Meller
and Parsons in London Cemeteries say “this is a well-maintained cemetery
on an undulating site, The planting is now mature and sombre coniferous trees
surround the entrance.” They single out a hand full of memorials as being of
some interest, failing to mention the one spectacular monument in the cemetery,
and can’t find a single notable to list as being buried here. The cemetery clearly
failed to inspire them. Their down beat assessment is a little unfair; it is
one of the many minor cemeteries in London but there is much of interest to see
here and the setting is pretty. The
Enfield Burial Board was formed in 1870 in response to the usual crisis of capacity
for burials in the local churchyard, St Andrew’s. The newly formed board
acquired land at the top of Lavender Hill, appointed Thomas J. Hill to build the
two gothic chapels (one CoE, the other for non-conformists) and opened the new
cemetery for business in 1872. Judging from the reports on the meetings of the
Burial Board in the Middlesex Gazette, things ran smoothly at the cemetery,
with only minor mishaps to enliven Board meetings. In 1901 ‘the Clerk reported
that some fencing at Lavender Hill Cemetery had been damaged by a horse and
cart belonging to Mr. Walker with whom arrangement been had made for the
necessary repair.’ In 1910 ‘it was
formally reported by the Clerk that about 14 feet of the metal forming part of
the lightning conductor on the Lavender Hill Chapel had been stolen one-night
last week. The Board directed that the damage should be made good forthwith.’ In 1908 the Gazette’s reporter stifled a yawn
and perked up when there was ‘an application for permission to inter the body
of a child with that of a grandparent in an adult space of a nonpurchase grave.
After discussion the Board declined to accede to the request, being opposed to
the using up of adult spaces for burial of children.’ But that was as exciting
as it got.
Although
they mention the Bosanquet chest tomb as being one of the better memorials
Meller and Parson’s neglect to mention that James Whatman Bosanquet (1804–1877)
was a well to do banker who had a sideline in biblical and Assyrian chronology
and wrote several books on the subject. Also buried here is Joy Gardner, the 40-year-old
Jamaican who suffered cardiac arrest at her home in Crouch End in July 1993
during an immigration raid by the Metropolitan Police. Gardner was restrained,
in front of her 5 year old son, with handcuffs and leather straps and, most notoriously,
13 feet of adhesive tape wrapped around her head. After suffering cardiac arrest and respiratory
failure she was taken to the Whittington Hospital where she died 4 days later.
Three police officers stood trial for manslaughter but were acquitted of the
charges. The case aroused huge controversy. Benjamin Zephaniah wrote a poem called
‘The death of Joy Gardner’;
They
put a leather belt around her
13
feet of tape and bound her
Handcuffs
to secure her
And
only God knows what else,
She’s
illegal, so deport her
Said
the Empire that brought her
She
died,
Nobody
killed her
And
she never killed herself.
It
is our job to make her
Return
to Jamaica
Said
the Alien Deporters
Who
deports people like me,
It
was said she had a warning
That
the officers were calling
On
that deadly July morning
As
her young son watched TV
A
war graves headstone commemorates Royal Navy Cook Neil Goodall who died aboard
HMS Sheffield on the 4th May 1982 when he was just 21. HMS Sheffield was on her
way to the Falklands when she was holed by an Exocet missile fired by the Argentinian
Air Force. A serious fire broke out but
as the ship’s fire fighting systems had been damaged by the missile the captain
eventually gave the order to abandon ship. Sheffield was towed for several days
HMS Yarmouth but high seas and the hole in her hull eventually caused her to
sink. The bodies of the 20 crew members who were killed by the attack were
still on board and sank with the ship. The wreck is now a designated war grave.
Another
memorial mentioned by Meller and Parson’s is ‘Heinreich Faulenbach’s grave
marked by a bronze plaque on a substantial granite vault.’ In 2007 the Edmonton
Hundred Historical Society published an occasional paper by Pat Keeble and
Robert Musgrove entitled ‘Who was Heinreich Faulenbach?; a case study in family
and local history research.’ Copies of
the paper are in the university libraries at UCL, Cornell and Stanford but not,
unfortunately on-line. I can’t find out anything about Heinrich (or Henry)
Faulenbach other than he may have been the owner of a trimming warehouse in the
City of London. So the question of who Heinreich (or Heinrich, or Henry) Faulenbach
was remains a mystery.
Lavender
Hill’s most impressive monument belongs to the Lucena family. It is not
mentioned at all by Meller and Parsons and seems to have been virtually unknown
until it featured in Richard Barnes book on sculpture in London cemeteries. Meller
and Paron’s missed it I suspect because it probably heavily overgrown for many
years. The oldest photos I can find of it date from 2015 and although undergrowth
has been cleared away the memorial itself still has Ivy suckers all over it. It
must have been some find the council workmen who cleared the site. The story of the Lucena family is fascinating,
particularly that of Anne Maria Lucena, the housemaid who married her employer,
became an extremely wealthy woman and was murdered by her son-in-law. I have
already dealt with the story at length here, so won’t go into now. I did however some across this account of
Anne Maria’s funeral in the Middlesex Gazette of Saturday 11 January 1908 under
the headline ‘The Hampshire Tragedy’ which I think is worth reprinting in full:
FUNERAL AT LAVENDER HILL. The terrible New Year's
Eve tragedy at "Velmead," Fleet, Hampshire, when the late Major
Coates Phillips made such a furious attack on the house party, resulted in the
death of a lady who was at one time a well-known Enfield resident. Mrs. Lucena,
the mother-in-law of the assailant, had, since the divorce decree terminating
the marriage of her daughter, lived with Mrs. Phillips either at South
Kensington or at the latter’s house at Fleet, near Winchfield. Until after her husband’s
death in 1876, she resided in Enfield, and the family were amongst the first to
purchase the right of sepulture in Lavender Hill Cemetery.
It was, therefore, decided, upon a fatal termination
of the revolver shot wound, that the remains should be interred here. On the
conclusion of the inquest., last Monday, the remains, enclosed in wood and lead
shells, with an outer massive casket of polished oak, were given into the care
of the undertaker, Mr. James Oakley, of Fleet and Farringdon street, and
removed to London. On Wednesday the body was conveyed in an open hearse to
Enfield, accompanied by Mr. Field, Mr. Oakley's City manager, the mourners—for
the most part nephews and nieces- being met at the G.N. station. The weather
was in accord with the sadness of the event. Rain descended copiously, and a
gusty westerly wind swept across the cemetery. This notwithstanding, there were
about 300 spectators to witness this closing phase of the tragedy. The Vicar of
Enfield, the Rev. R. Howel Brown, officiated in the Cemetery chapel and also at
the vault, which had been opened by Mr. C. Eaton, mason. Mr. W. J. Matthews,
Clerk to the Burial Board, attended; and several police were present to repress
any unseemly display, which, however, was altogether absent. On the contrary,
the hundreds of on-looker s were evidently animated by feelings of sympathy and
commiseration with the mourners, amongst whom were: Mr. T. H. Gardiner (of the
firm of Messrs. Jackaman, Gardiner and Smith), family solicitor; Mr. F. Radian,
Mr. Stephen Benn and Mrs. Benn of Ealing; Mr. C. Augustus Benn, of Eggars Hill,
Aldershot; Mr. E. Purser, Old Windsor; Mr. A. Purser, Slough; Mr. A. W. Perry,
and several lady relatives. Mr. and Mrs E. P. Morgan, of Windmill Hill, were
also present.
Mrs. Phillips was physically unfit to undertake the
long journey, and the ordeal of the funeral; but she sent a very handsome
wreath. Floral tributes were also sent by "Bertha," the
grand-daughter, Lady and Mrs. Humphreys, the servants at " Velmead"
and Cheniston House, Kensington, Mr. Henry Smith (the solicitor who so narrowly
escaped being killed at the time of the attack), Miss Ouchterlony ("With
best love"), Mr. F. W. Behan, Mrs. W. Lang, Dr. Sunderland (of Cavendish
Place), Mr. C. Benn, Mrs. C. A. Breay, "Alfred and Ada," "Edmund
and Tot," Mrs. A. L. Martin, Mrs. J. A. Benn and family, Mrs. and the
Misses Ouchterlony, and the family solicitors.
|
The monument of the mysterious Heinreich Faulenbach |
The silver breastplate bore upon it the simple
inscription: ANNE MARIA LUCENA, Died 4 Jan., 1908, Aged 65 Years. Although it is many years ago since the Lucena
family resided in Enfield —Mr. Lucena died in 1876—widespread interest was
aroused in the locality on the personality of the victim of this terrible
tragedy becoming known to local residents. Especially was this so in the case
of the older inhabitants of this district who have a vivid recollection of the
family when they resided at the house now known as West View, Windmill Hill;
and gossip and stories, almost forgotten, have been fully rehearsed here during
the past, week. In this connection we might cite one anecdote which is said to
be characteristic of Mr. Lucena, who was a solicitor by profession. Back in the
70s there were two very well-known men in commercial circles in the Town—the
Brothers Young. Fred. Young was a butcher, and his place of business was at the
Pent House, now occupied by Messrs. Stansfeld. The story goes that a dog
belonging to Mr. Lucena had carried off a leg of mutton from Mr. Young's
premises, and the tradesman hit upon what he conceived to be a shrewd way of
presenting the subject of compensation to the owner of the dog. "Sir," said he to the lawyer one
day, “f you were a butcher, and a dog came into your shop and stole a leg of
mutton, what would you do?" "Why, I should charge the owner of the
dog the value of it, of course," replied Mr. Lucena. Taking the hint, it
is said that Mr. Young lost no time in sending in a bill to his "legal
adviser" for the value of the joint, accompanied by an intimation that his
animal it was that had played the thief. But in lieu of the desired remittance
the tradesman received a very different reply —no other than an amount, thus:
"To advice on a point of law, 6s. 8d. value of mutton, 5s. 4d.; balance
due, 1s. 4d. Please remit at once." We are not aware if there was ever a
settlement.
|
The Bosanquet chest tomb with the Anglican chapel in the background |
The Lucena family grave in Lavender Hill Cemetery is
located easily by what is undoubtedly the most handsome monument within those
grounds. Mr. Lucena, dying at his house on Windmill Hill in 1876, was buried in
a very spacious vault, some 10 ft. in depth and 12 ft. wide, massively
constructed and enclosed by substantial ironwork. On a foundation of granite
there stands a marble base surmounted by figures said to represent the family
at the time of the father's decease. The central figure is that of a woman
seated, contemplating a book, while at her knees are the two children, a boy
arid a girl. The former holds a dog, which is a memorial of an animal greatly
petted by the family in their happier home life at Enfield. Flanking the group
is an angel figure on each side. with outspread wings, one grasping a cross,
the other an anchor; and above the seated adult figure they hold a wreath. The whole
of this statuary is of Italian marble, and it is said that the cost of the
memorial was from £2,900 to £3,000. A tragic incident occurred during its
erection here. One of the large atones used as a slab suddenly fell, while in
an upright position, and killed one of the workmen.
In the appended copy of the inscription carved on
the marble, the reader will not fail to be struck, in the light of the recent
tragedy, by the aptness of the Scriptural text. It will be noted, too, that the
son's remains have, for some years past, been deposited within the vault. The
inscription reads thus: “In Loving Memory of STEPHEN LANCASTER LUCENA, ESQ.,
Who died 13 June, 1876, In his 72nd Year. This monument is erected by his
widow. STEPHIN LANCASTER LUCENA, Son of the above, Who died 4th May, 1900, Aged
34 Years. ‘In the midst of life we are in death.’" Although Mrs. Lucena
had ceased to reside in Enfield, she retained considerable property in the
locality; and we understand that only a few weeks before the sad at Velmead she
was in the Town on business connected with her properties. On that occasion she
appeared in good health, and conversed pleasantly with some local residents.