St
Pancras Gardens on Pancras Road once formed part of two separate burial grounds
– one for the parishioners of St Pancras itself and the other as an extension to
the churchyard of St Gile’s-in-the fields (which is a couple of miles away on
the other side of Covent Garden). The
site was not popular with residents of St Giles, one of them complained to the
Churchwarden “I object to the burying-ground that is offered to this parish,
for this reason, Mr Churchwarden, that I am sure that no man in his senses
would go so far to be buried: In the next place, Mr Church-warden, I am told
(for I know nothing but what I am told) that it is so improper a place for a
burying-ground, that before a man can lay his head down in the ground, Mr
Church-warden, he will certainly be drowned with water.' (The Times, March 8th
1780). Despite the objectors and the boggy ground 26,676 interments took place in
the two burial grounds between 1827 and 1847. By 1850 a local resident was
complaining to the Times of chronic overcrowding in the grave yard “more than
25 corpses have been deposited every week for the last 20 years in an already
overcrowded space; and at this very time they are burying in it at nearly twice
that rate….teeth, bones, fragments of coffin wood are seen lying in quantities
around these pits.”
By
1854 the burial grounds had been closed and a decade later they were being eyed
up by the Midland Railway Company as a possible site for a goods shed or to cut
through for a planned mainline route into St Pancras station. By 1866 the plans
had become a reality and work started on removing headstones and monuments and
exhuming the countless corpses so that construction of railway arches and the
laying of track could commence. In June the Morning Post reported that a ‘gentleman’
had attended Clerkenwell Magistrates to complain on behalf of the inhabitants
of St Pancras Road of the stench arising from the work of exhumation:
[It] appears that
within the past few days excavations have been going on at the east corner the
St. Giles's Cemetery, which, it is stated, is the pauper portion of the
burial-ground, for the formation of the Midland Railway, and that several
coffins and a large quantity of bones have been exposed to public view. In some
cases the coffins were perfectly sound, and on one of them being taken out it
was broken, and it was stated that the body of a female was almost perfect and
sound when it was first buried. In many cases decayed bones and skulls have
been thrown up and about the ground, and in other instances they have been
placed in a large box, but not buried. As there was doubt that this was a
desecration of the dead, and such an act ought not to be tolerated, it was
considered by the inhabitants of district that the matter should be made
public. The stench was such that it was likely to be injurious to health. The
applicant was referred to the sanitary department of St. Pancras
View of the railway works in Old St Pancras churchyard |
The
story of the ‘horrible desecration of the dead’ at St Pancras made the pages of
other newspapers during the following weeks. A journalist from the Maidstone
Chronicle visited the works and reported to his readers “I saw many graves broken up, and their human contents—dead men's
shanks, and yellow chapless skulls—packed higgledy-piggledy into a large wooden
box. As one coffin was stove in by the blow the navvy's spade a, fair bright
tress of hair was seen, and pronounced by the foreman of the gang to have
belonged to a good-looking person, while another observed that the teeth
scattered about would be a helpful ornament to many a living head. This ghastly
merriment, speculation, and moralising may no doubt quite the delver’s own, but
it forms a hideous marginal comment on the text of the burial service, whether as
it stands now or according to the proposed alteration of my Lord Ebury; for
such resurrection is not contemplated in either.”
The
architect in charge of the exhumation works was Arthur Blomfield of Covent
Garden. One of the architecture students working in his office was a certain
Thomas Hardy, a young man from Dorset who later abandoned architecture for
literature. Young Thomas Hardy was given the job of supervising the exhumations
and the removal of gravestones from that part of the burial ground earmarked
for the mainline into St Pancras. Person or persons unknown arranged some of
the removed headstones into an interesting self supporting pattern surrounding
an ash tree which stood close to the church. That person was unlikely to be
Hardy himself but nevertheless the tree and its surrounding gravestones have
been known as the Hardy Tree ever since. The experience almost certainly did influence
the composition of one of Hardy’s poems, ‘The Levelled Churchyard”, written in
1882:
O passenger, pray list and catch
Our sighs and piteous groans,
Half stifled in this jumbled patch
Of wrenched memorial stones!
We late-lamented, resting here,
Are mixed to human jam,
And each to each exclaims in fear,
'I know not which I am!’
The Hardy Tree in St Pancras Old Churchyard, a relic of the 1866 exhumations by the Midland Railway Company |