St Patrick's Roman Catholic Cemetery, Leyton |
The Moldovan Detective Druscovich |
St Patrick's Roman Catholic Cemetery, Leyton |
The Moldovan Detective Druscovich |
These
are the rest of my photographs from my visit to Kensal Green on the 15th
December, all taken just before sundown.
This is Mexican poet Xavier Villaurrutia’s poem ‘Cementerio en la nieve’ (Cemetery in the snow) from his book Nostalgia de la Muerte (1934). My translation (all errors mine, please feel to correct in the comments section)) is below:
Nothing can compare to a cemetery in the snow. What name to give to whiteness on white? The sky has let fall unfeeling drifts of snow upon the tombs and now nothing is left but snow upon the snow like a hand left resting on itself for all eternity.
The
birds prefer to cross the sky, striking the invisible corridors of air, to
leave just the snow, which is like leaving it intact, which is like leaving it
snow
Because
it is not enough to say that a cemetery in the snow is like sleep without
dreams, nor like sightless eyes.
If
something has a sleeping insensible body, from the fall of one silence upon
another, and from the white persistence of oblivion, then nothing can be
compared to a cemetery in the snow!
Because
above all snow is silence, made even more silent on bloodless slabs: lips that
can no longer say a single word.
The tomb of Alexander Nesbitt Shaw ('late of the Bombay Civil Service") |
I took all these photos at Kensal Green Cemetery on the afternoon of the 15th December. The snow that had fallen a few days before was still on the ground and the temperature was still hovering around zero despite it being a sunny afternoon. The light was spectacular, a clear, cloudless afternoon with the sun already low in the sky by the time I arrived at 2.30. Despite it being ten days before Christmas there were still leaves on some of the trees and the colours of sky, snow and the last gasp of autumn were just beautiful.
I
also took a lot of twilight pictures but I’ll post them later in the week.
Previous previous pre-Christmas visits to Kensal Green can be seen here (2018) and here (2019) and here (St Mary's Catholic Cemetery 2021)
View along Central Avenue towards the Anglican Chapel |
Memorial to Major General Sir William Casement, Indian army officer |
The Tomb of William Mulready, artist and Royal Academician |
The tomb of the circus equestrian Andrew Ducrow |
A multitude of Angels (playing with your heart?) |
The grave of George Ryall formerly of Lahore, India |
Damn, I can't for the life of me remember whose grave this is... |
Over Christmas the Hardy Tree in St Pancras Old Churchyard finally succumbed to blight and collapsed. No one was there to witness the trees last moment though reddit user Srinjoy Dey, who was the first to photograph the toppled ash on Boxing Day, says that he heard a loud bang just as he was going into the churchyard. The trunk had been snapped off at the point where it emerges from the encircling headstones. I was last in the churchyard on 12th December when I was taking photos in the snow, including a few of the tree. On my first day back at work after the holidays I stopped off on the way into the office to see the damage for myself. I expected the fallen tree to have already been removed by Camden Council and to find myself contemplating its absence but it was still there, resting where it had collapsed, like a felled giant. As a concession to health and safety the council had surrounded it with a security fence, forcing me to risk losing my phone to take photos as I had to poke it between the wires to get a clear view. The fence also stopped me from acquiring a twig or a piece of bark as a souvenir, as I had planned. I have always been fond of the tree, and I’ve written about it several times, including a debunking of the myth that it had anything to do with Thomas Hardy. Looking at its mortal remains I felt slightly guilty, as if, in the days before they died, I had challenged the accuracy of the tall tales told by an elderly relative.
It
was an anonymous commenter on one of my posts that tipped me off to the tree’s
demise a couple of days after it had happened. By then the event had been
reported on the BBC website and in the Camden New Journal, the Standard, the
Guardian and in various other newspapers nationally and internationally,
including the New York Times. Most of that initial coverage reiterated the
story that it was Thomas Hardy himself that had arranged the headstones around
the tree but by the time The Guardian followed up its initial coverage with an
editorial published on 29 December entitled The Guardian view on the death of the Hardy Tree; a legend uprooted, the connection with Hardy was being called into question;
The toppling of a tree, without injury, in a city churchyard would not normally make news headlines, but the mighty ash outside London’s Old St Pancras church was one of the capital’s most venerated natural landmarks and a destination of literary pilgrimage. Encircled with gravestones that it seemed to be absorbing into its root system, the Hardy Tree acquired its name, and its celebrity, from a story that the poet and novelist Thomas Hardy, then a young architect’s apprentice in a rapidly growing London, was personally responsible for stacking its trunk with stones cleared to make way for the expansion of the Midland railway line in the mid-1860s.
…Hardy
himself wrote of overseeing the exhumations. He was charged with turning up at
unexpected times to ensure that the clerk of works was doing a respectful job
and not simply dumping the bones, as had happened in previous cemetery
clearances.
What
is missing is any evidence that Hardy had any direct involvement in the
arrangement of the stones. Moreover, photographs of the churchyard, unearthed by an assiduous amateur historian, suggest that the current ash grew between
1926 and 1960, only later becoming known as the Hardy Tree. That it had no
greater verifiable connection with the Victorian author than, say, Sherwood
Forest’s Major Oak had with Robin Hood, or Berkshire’s Ankerwycke Yew had with
the signing of the Magna Carta, hardly matters. By mere dint of their
longevity, trees collect myths and become lightning rods for the historical
imagination.
There
was a link to the work of the ‘assiduous amateur historian’, who I was
pleasantly surprised to find out, was me. I wasn’t named but being tagged and
linked by a broadsheet are enough kudos for me. Guardian readers are a literate
bunch; the last contribution to the comments section before it was closed is a
poem called Ashes to Ashes by Lepidus77;
An
assiduous amateur historian
questions the provenance
of the Hardy Ash, that crashed
in Old St. Pancras churchyard
late in twenty twenty-two.
Ashes
are the opportunists
of the arboreal world,
good for a few hundred years
with luck, becoming
lightning rods for the historical imagination.
Legend
has it Hardy helped
stack the stones to
stay the mighty ash
where the Shelleys had tiptoed
permissively, and later
Mary Wollstonecraft would lie.
We
need that tree to have
predated Hardy, ideally
witnessing the sunlit
Shelley trysts, providing
shade for Mary’s long lying in.
A
post-war chancer ash, toppling
after sixty odd years,
barely mocks our own
three score plus stint. We need
the ash to bookend us,
implying that life going on.
At
least one commenter, who calls himself Alabasterhand, took umbrage with the
Guardian questioning the authenticity of the connection between the tree and
Thomas Hardy; “There is something positively malignant in the way that this
newspaper seems grimly determined to sweep away what it seemingly regards as
dangerous myths like the age of the Hardy tree.... If the Editorial team on The
Guardian feels it has nothing better to do than to crush and stamp out charming,
harmless consolatory legends then I would suggest it is high time they pack it
in altogether.” Several other commenters pointed out that you can hardly
complain about someone doubting the truth of something you call a ‘charming
harmless consolatory legend’ as legends are, by definition, not true.
Another
commenter, stpman, had additional interesting details to add about the history
of the tree; “About 20 years ago I suspected that the tree was rather less
than 100 years old and did some research at the Camden Local Studies Library in
Theobald's Road, Holborn... In the late 1970s the graveyard needed repair work
to the paths, railings and stonework. The gravestones were again tidied - and
placed rather more neatly around the tree that had grown alongside from about
the 1920s. I was told by the library staff that a St. Pancras church cleric
began referring to it as "The Hardy Tree" at that time, and this is
probably how the myth was born.” Alabasterhand
was quick to jump in again; “Hardy's activity at Old St Pancras is most
certainly not a "myth" but a well documented fact, working under the
supervision of the architect Arthur Bloomfield. I can moreover confirm that the
circle of overlapping gravestones was attributed to Hardy to my clear memory in
the mid 1960's. Why would anyone make up such a story? More importantly, why
are people so keen to rush in to call the story into question? What horrible,
joyless times we live in.” Quite why
anyone would take a correction to the factual record so hard is a mystery to
me.
The
Guardian finished its editorial with the following reflection;
The
demise of an old tree is always sad. But perhaps the real story of the Hardy
ash is that it wasn’t special; it didn’t witness the canoodlings of the
Shelleys, fall in a freak storm or die in a scary, imported pandemic. The
entanglement of root and stone reveals a history of nature and humanity
competing and coexisting in a swiftly changing industrial landscape. In death,
it has grown into its own urban myth.
The Hardy Tree when it was still hale and hearty |